Posted by Jeremy G. on 23rd, 2008
What have I been up to in my life? First it was that I moved down to Waikiki, then it was that I was uninspired, then it was that I just didn’t care, and most recently, it’s because I’ve picked up surfing. I’m going to focus on the surfing 
Here is my very first board, a real beat up guy bought for a good price, but still very ridable.
I am very happy and proud of it, as it’s my first surfboard ever, even though I’ve lived all my life in California. Yes that’s right, we don’t all surf, hardly any of us do actually.
Anyways, I’ll share one beginner surfing tip with you guys. I know it might sound boring, but when you are all ready to jump in the water and start surfing, just stop for a few minutes and watch the waves. Plan your attack. This will save you TONS of effort and frustration, trust me. See where the waves are breaking, where they tail off, and make a conscious plan to surf in a specific area and stick to it. There is nothing more frustrating that trying over and over to catch a wave in an area where they just aren’t breaking, such as the middle area of the Canoes break in Waikiki. At Canoes, for some reason the waves break outside (way out) and inside (close to shore) but there is a dead zone in the middle which is impossible to catch anything in. After a few times of becoming extremely frustrated and tired AND catching no waves, I learned to avoid the dead zone. Every time I go out I still see people floundering away there though, wasting their energy and thinking there are no ridable waves today. I like to smile and wave as I ride by them
Posted by Jeremy on 2nd, 2008
I had the idea the other day to something crazy. Surf for 100 days in a row. I have gone surfing exactly 3 times over the last 8 months (210 days for those too lazy to do the math
Why? Why not. It might be something great for me, and at the very least, I’m right back where I started: out of shape, pale, and seaching for something to ad some meaning to life. The good? I’d be ridiculously in shape, tan, and probably feeling pretty good about myself for accomplishing something.
So what do you guys think? Feel free to comment below.
Posted by Jeremy on 10th, 2008
Six months ago, I picked up everything I owned and moved out to sunny Hawaii , and it’s been one big adventure. Right decision or wrong? Life is always filled with decisions, some good, some bad, and some that only time will make clear. When I’m old and look back, I’ll be glad I did it, but I still need to decide what I want from my life.
I want this blog to be all about my life, what I want out of it, and where I see myself going. Oh, and a documentary of all my crazy exploits as well
Hawaii is one big adventure for me. I love it sometimes, but I hate it sometimes. When I have days off and get to go be a tourist, I love it. Hiking to waterfalls, surfing, snorkling, or just driving around this paradise island is what makes me happy. But when I’m at work, knowing that every single cent I made has to be used to just BARELY pay off all my bills, I hate it. Spinning my wheels big time, but still enjoying the moment.
On the good side, I’ve finally picked up surfing, and am getting to live that Hawaiian dream. Paddling way out into the ocean and hopping on a wave to glide back twords shore just makes me happy, and reminds me why I was so driven to live out here in the first place.
Well, that’s all for now, feel free to leave a comment or ask a question, I’ll try to answer them all
