My Life: Waikiki Story
What have I been up to in my life? First it was that I moved down to Waikiki, then it was that I was uninspired, then it was that I just didn’t care, and most recently, it’s because I’ve picked up surfing. I’m going to focus on the surfing 
Here is my very first board, a real beat up guy bought for a good price, but still very ridable.
I am very happy and proud of it, as it’s my first surfboard ever, even though I’ve lived all my life in California. Yes that’s right, we don’t all surf, hardly any of us do actually.
Anyways, I’ll share one beginner surfing tip with you guys. I know it might sound boring, but when you are all ready to jump in the water and start surfing, just stop for a few minutes and watch the waves. Plan your attack. This will save you TONS of effort and frustration, trust me. See where the waves are breaking, where they tail off, and make a conscious plan to surf in a specific area and stick to it. There is nothing more frustrating that trying over and over to catch a wave in an area where they just aren’t breaking, such as the middle area of the Canoes break in Waikiki. At Canoes, for some reason the waves break outside (way out) and inside (close to shore) but there is a dead zone in the middle which is impossible to catch anything in. After a few times of becoming extremely frustrated and tired AND catching no waves, I learned to avoid the dead zone. Every time I go out I still see people floundering away there though, wasting their energy and thinking there are no ridable waves today. I like to smile and wave as I ride by them
Ahh I remember those days…
Carrying my 10 ft surf board in the elevator, then dragging it 8 blocks through tons of tourist on my way to the beach. By the time I got there I was dead already. But surfing sure kicks ass. I need to get back on a board soon.
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September 24th, 2008 at 11:51 am
that is awesome.. i hope i can surf someday…
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October 10th, 2008 at 5:22 am
Wow that’s very cool actually! It must be stimulating and interesting!
Enjoy surfing!
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October 12th, 2008 at 5:17 pm